Inside scoop

Four experts on the future of jewellery

2017 saw shoulder-dusting earrings become the go-to adornment and statement jewels take centre stage. So what will 2018 bring?

We asked four industry insiders for their jewellery predictions for the year ahead. Here’s what you need to know…

camera Earrings from Fernando Jorge's brilliant collection

Sarah Royce-Greensill, jewellery editor, Telegraph Luxury

What themes in jewellery from 2017 are here to stay?

A move away from delicate, stacking pieces to larger, statement jewellery – especially earrings – shoulder-dusting is the new norm. And the brooch made a massive comeback this year, with fine jewellers relishing the opportunity to showcase their design and craftsmanship without the constraints of wearability.

What’s coming up in jewellery in 2018 that’s new and exciting?

I think hair jewellery will become more mainstream. Certain jewellers have been experimenting – from Dauphin’s incredible diamond ponytail accessory to Susan Foster’s diamond kirby grips, but there are also more pared-back styles from the likes of Charlotte Chesnais and Ana Khouri. The brooch’s comeback illustrates that jewellery extends beyond what you wear on your fingers, neck and wrist – hair jewels could be the next logical step.

Brands or collections we should have on our radar?

Gaelle Khouri’s latest collection was incredibly striking yet very wearable – she’s definitely one to watch. I fell in love with Alice Waese’s handmade, organic diamond-dusted pieces. Having just opened a store off Bond Street, Vhernier is bound to attract new fans with its cute and colourful animal brooches. We all already know and love him but Fernando Jorge has gone from strength to strength with his diamond Brilliant collection – I can’t wait to see what he does next.

camera Earrings by Annie Costello Brown

camera Ring by Fraser Hamilton

Kathryn Bishop, jewellery writer and co-founder, Women’s Jewellery Network

What themes in jewellery from 2017 are here to stay?

Colour – gemstones, enamel, nano-plating. Noor FaresTom Rucker and Fernando Jorge have used coloured-plating and coloured precious metals to create designs with a futuristic edge.

Jewellery has become incredibly expressive, with bold designs or playful motifs and materials. From Annie Costello Brown to Jennifer Loiselle, jewellery is not only a powerful finishing touch, but the ultimate expression of personality and mood. Oversized earrings and artistic references will certainly flow into 2018.

What’s coming up in jewellery in 2018 that’s new and exciting?

From a fashion point of view, jewellery will embrace the ‘80s again, with fruit and tropical motifs, drop earrings and collars and the continuation of the mismatched aesthetic and single shoulder-length earrings. Pearls will push their way forward into more extreme designs — knuckledusters and giant hoops. And as brides-to-be look to have increasingly unique engagement rings, raw or natural diamonds, combinations of diamond cuts, and softer textures in metals will make their mark.

Brands or collections we should have on our radar?

My ones to watch are Lucie Gledhill, with her hand-made chains and armour-like designs, Fraser Hamilton, whose work brings mischief to precious materials, Alighieri for her ancient amulets and Castro Smith for his intricately engraved signet rings. And Julie Nielsdottir for her sugary yet statement pearl designs.

camera Rings by Satomi Kawakita

Ruby Chadwick, jewellery buyer, Liberty

What themes in jewellery from 2017 are here to stay?

Earrings continues to rein strong from delicate ear curation to playful fantasy statement pairs. Yellow gold and pearls are also here to stay.

What’s coming up in jewellery in 2018 that’s new and exciting?

A resurgence in enamelling and pattern engraving – jewellery with talismanic qualities.

Brands we should have on our radar?

Japanese born, New York-based Satomi Kawakita and the Georgian designer Sopho Gongoli have some incredible standout pieces.

camera Ring by Mateo NY

Juliet Hutton-Squire, head of global strategy, Adorn Insight

What themes in jewellery from 2017 are here to stay?

Personalisation – a concept which has sustained growth in the industry for the past 5 years will continue to drive sales as the female self purchaser seeks out unique jewellery pieces that reflect her lifestyle and support her fashion choices. Fashion jewellery silhouettes will continue to push the boundaries in the fine jewellery sector as women desire jewellery that is as relevant today as it will be in decades to come. New icons are being created which will challenge the traditional ideas of what a basic jewellery wardrobe should look like. We expect to see a strong uptake in the charm bracelet category as well as a continued focus on feminine neckline silhouettes. Piercings will continue to dominate the earlobe with more and more women across age groups making adventurous choices. This, too, supports the over arching theme of personalisation. Piercing parties and pop up parlours are going to become more mainstream. On the hand, ring adornment will continue to gain momentum with a focus on more statement pieces over fine stacking and layering.

What’s coming up in jewellery in 2018 that’s new and exciting for 2018.

Maximalism is a theme that works well in jewellery and we anticipate this idea filtering down into the design and style of new collections. Opulent colour choices, oversized proportions and luxurious materials all support this idea of decadent adornment. We expect to see an increase in gemstones. On the semi-precious front designers will explore new ways to carve and sculpt stone. The growing acceptance of Lab created gems as a sustainable option will open up exciting opportunities in the form of size and cut. In general, advances in 3D printing an material innovation will continue to challenge and inspire the concept of precious jewellery. Mirroring the political and social status of women and the solidarity movements against abuse, harassment and assault we anticipate an increase in jewellery collections that make a political and social statement. 

Brands or collections we should have on our radar?

Mateo NY, Ming Jewellery, Azza Fahmy, Yannis Sergakis, Dauphin, Jasmine Alexander, Annelise Michelson, Joelle Savransky